When planning a master suite addition, don’t just think “bump out” — think “build up,” “do over,” and “fold in” the space you already have.

A primary suite addition is a place to call your own — no kiddie toys, no teens hogging the bathroom a heavenly space where you can bathe, dress, or simply relax in peace. But paradise doesn’t come cheap.

A primary suite addition to a house has a national median cost of $172,500 and pays back 56% of its cost, according to the “Remodeling Impact Report” from the National Association of REALTORS®.

Primary Suite Building Basics

Bumping out your house to add a primary suite means giving up yard space, excavating, pouring a foundation, framing — the whole shebang that requires the full range of tradesmen, from roofer to plumber to tile-setter.

You’ll need zoning approval and building inspections, expanded heating and cooling systems, and probably an upgraded electrical panel, water heater, and burglar alarm, too.

 

Think Outside the Bump-Out

If you take advantage of existing space for your primary suite addition, you can trim 20% to 60% from your budget. Here’s how.

Build up instead of out: Add your primary suite on top of ground floor space — over a porch, garage, or previous addition. The disadvantage? Ground-level space is easier to age into.

Steal underutilized space: Incorporate that rarely used guest room — even better, that extra bathroom — into your primary suite. You’ll save thousands if you can tap into existing water and sewer lines.

Finish unfinished space: Convert unfinished basement, attic, or even garage space into a primary suite. Because you don’t have to build a foundation, exterior walls, or a roof, you’ll save 50% to 60% compared with a full-scale addition.

Gift That Keeps on Costing

Your primary suite expenses don’t end when the last faucet and light switch are installed. Every month you’ll pay higher energy bills to heat, cool, and light your new space.

If you add 400 square feet to a 2,000-square-foot house — 20% more space — your energy bills likely will grow by 20%, too. Your property tax bill may increase by a larger percentage, because you’re adding space and installing a bathroom, which tax assessors value at a higher rate than other rooms.

Be Realistic About Payback

Adding a primary suite will make a big difference to your life, but may not equally impact the value of your house. If yours is the only primary suite on the block, you’ll recoup less than if primary suites are standard in your neighborhood. Not everything is about money, however. If you plan to stay in your house for another three to five years, adding a private oasis could just be … priceless.

Here’s the inside scoop on how to tackle the dreaded chore of deep cleaning.

With the turn of the season comes a household chore Americans love to hate: spring cleaning. Whether you call it spring cleaning or deep cleaning and do it in the spring or another time of year, the idea is the same. You break out the sponges and brooms and get scrubbin’ on — and behind and under — every surface in your home.

The reasons to do it are more than tradition. A deep clean is good not only for your home but maybe even for your mental health. Homeowners say a clean home improves their well-being and lowers their stress, according to a survey by OnePoll.

The survey, conducted in 2023, found that 68% of consumers call spring cleaning overwhelming, and many say they often postpone the heaviest tasks for days. Some never do it at all.

But consumers may be warming to the idea, according to a spring 2024 survey conducted by the American Cleaning Institute. It showed that 80% of US households do deep cleaning at least yearly. However, 10% do it every other year, and 6% don’t do it at all. Another interesting finding: The biggest reason consumers dread deep cleaning is dealing with places that are hard to reach, such as behind or under furniture or appliances.

No matter where you fall on the frequency or dread scale, don’t throw in the towel on getting optimal results. Read on for the low-down on deep cleaning and how to make the process less stressful (we see you, robovacs!).

When and How Often to Deep Clean

“You should do a deep clean once a year or maybe even twice a year,” says Debbie Sardone, owner of Buckets & Bows Maid Service in the Dallas area and SpeedCleaning.com. “It doesn’t have to be done in the spring; it could also be in the summer, fall, or winter, she adds.

Brian Sansoni, senior vice president at the ACI, agrees about flexible timing. “Depending on your regular cleaning routine, you can deep clean twice a year — once in the spring and again at the beginning of winter. Or you could deep clean at the beginning of each new season.” The key is to make the process more manageable.

How Is Deep Cleaning Different from Routine Cleaning?

To destress the process, it helps to break down what’s involved. Deep cleaning takes your typical day-to-day or week-to-week cleaning a lot, well, deeper. It’s all about removing dirt, grime, scum, and gunk all around your home — even under the bed and behind furniture and appliances.

Routine cleaning, which often is done weekly or every other week, focuses more on tidying up spaces and spot cleaning, including:

• Vacuuming or mopping floors
• Wiping countertops and surfaces in the kitchen and bathrooms
• Taking out the trash
• Dusting furniture and shelves
• Scrubbing toilets
• Cleaning and wiping off surfaces as they become dirty

“Deep cleaning encompasses the nooks and crannies of your space, from the blinds and curtains to walls, ceiling fans, and upholstered furniture,” Sansoni says.

“Places that collect a lot of dust and dander, like shelves and spaces behind the furniture, should be the focus of some of your deep cleaning to mitigate asthma and allergy triggers,” he adds. “High-touch areas, like doorknobs, remote controls, and even keyboards should be cleaned and disinfected to kill bacteria.”

Deep cleaning extends to purging and decluttering. “Don’t get so sidetracked vacuuming and dusting that you forget to ever purge or declutter a drawer,” Sardone says. You need to declutter periodically or else everyday messes and clutter can quickly get out of control, she adds.

How to Make Deep Cleaning Manageable

Make a home cleaning schedule that includes a room-by-room cleaning task checklist. Sardone recommends listing deep cleaning and routine cleaning chores by frequency:

• Daily: Spot cleaning and tidying up your space, such as by emptying the dishwasher, attending to any spills, cleaning, and putting away dishes or clothes.
• Weekly: Surface-level wiping of countertops, vacuuming floors, and dusting
• Periodic or deep cleaning: Wiping down baseboards, ceiling fans, and windows, and scrubbing surfaces more thoroughly than you would day-to-day.

Daily and weekly cleaning don’t need to take hours. “You can spot clean in a matter of seconds,” Sardone says. “If you see a problem with the toilet, grab a toilet brush and give it a quick scrub. If you see a blemish on the bathroom mirror, wipe just the spot with cleaner. You don’t have to clean the entire mirror.”

If you keep up with daily and weekly cleaning chores, deep cleaning or spring cleaning your home will be easier, she says. “For a lot of people who don’t do deep cleaning, they likely haven’t kept up with their maintenance cleaning,” Sardone says. It makes deep cleaning so much more work, since the grime has built up to a higher level.

What Should Be on My Deep Cleaning Checklist?

A 2023 consumer survey by the ACI found that consumers list these tasks as the top priorities when deep cleaning:

• Wash windows
• Clean behind furniture
• Clean appliances
• Wash bedclothes/linens
• Scrub floors
• Clean fabrics/upholstered surfaces
• Clean the garage
• Wash curtains
• Clean the basement

Cleaning Checklist by Room

You can break down your tasks by room, as well as by routine versus deep cleaning, to help you prioritize the job and starting with the easiest room (or hardest, depending on your motivation). Here’s a checklist to help you get started.

Kitchen

Routine (daily or weekly):

• Remove any food splatters
• Clean and put away dishes
• Wipe countertops
• Sweep or mop floors (wet mop weekly)
• Empty trash
• Clean and disinfect cutting boards before and after each use
• Clear food particles and grease residue in sink and elsewhere

Deep clean:

• Polish kitchen cabinets and knobs (remove dust from upper cabinets)
• Clean refrigerator shelves and outside coils
• Defrost freezer
• Clean out pantry
• Clean and scrub oven (including interior door)
• Wipe drawers and cabinet shelves
• Clean behind large appliances
• Scrub grout
• Wash inside and outside of trash bins
• Clean out filters for dishwasher and range hood

Bathrooms

Routine (daily or weekly):

• Spot clean items as needed
• Wipe sink, toilet, counters, mirrors weekly
• Empty trash
• Remove soap scum and grime
• Rinse tub and shower after each use (use spray cleaner)
• Vacuum and wet mop floors weekly
• Wash towels

Deep clean:

• Scrub grout
• Polish shower, toilet. and sink
• Replace or wash shower liner
• Clean showerheads and faucet filters
• Wash bath mats
• Clean and declutter under the sink and cabinets
• Vacuum and clean bathroom exhaust fan and air vents

Living Room

Routine (daily or weekly):

• Vacuum and mop floors
• Dust surfaces
• Tidy up

Deep clean:

• Move furniture to vacuum hard-to-reach areas
• Vacuum sofa and chairs (including under the cushions)
• Wash curtains
• Dust and clean lamp shades
• Wipe down window blinds
• Clean light fixtures and ceiling fan blades
• Shampoo rugs or carpets
• Wash windows and windowsills
• Sweep out fireplace

Utility Room and Laundry Room

Routine (daily or weekly):

• Sweep floors
• Clean out lint trap after each use
• Empty trash
• Dust shelves

Deep clean

• Check and clean drain filters
• Wipe down the drum’s seal
• Run a service wash on the machine

Bedrooms

Routine (daily or weekly):

• Clean and put away clothes
• Make the bed
• Wash bedding regularly
• Vacuum rugs or carpet
• Dust furniture

Deep clean:

• Clean ceiling fan blades and lighting fixtures
• Vacuum mattress (spray with fabric refresher); flip mattress
• Vacuum behind the bed and furnishings
• Wash all bedding and fabrics, including bed skirts and decorative pillow covers
• Wipe down blinds
• Wash curtains
• Declutter closet

Throughout Your Home

Routine (daily or weekly):

• Dust
• Vacuum and mop regularly
• Spot clean surfaces as needed
• Tidy up and remove clutter

Deep clean:

• Sanitize door handles
• Clean baseboards and moldings
• Wash windows and window sills
• Wipe interior and exterior doors and trim
• Vacuum heat registers and air vents
• Wipe switch plates and light switches
• Change out smoke alarm batteries

Outdoors

Routine (daily or weekly):

• Mow the lawn
• Rake leaves
• Prune bushes and remove weeds as needed
• Sweep decks and porches

Deep clean:

• Scrub or pressure wash deck or patio
• Clean gutters
• Wash outdoor furniture
• Clean grills and BBQs

Frequently Asked Questions About Deep Cleaning

No matter how much you’ve developed your deep cleaning skills, you may still wonder if there’s a better way or a new gadget to lighten your cleaning load. Here are some frequently asked questions to help you check what you might be missing.

What Are the Best Cleaning Tools to Use?

You don’t need the latest and greatest innovations to clean your home. “Keep it simple and very basic,” Sardone says. “We tend to quickly complicate our cleaning with the newest products. But they can then quickly overwhelm us.” Here are Sardone’s favorite cleaning aids:

• Melamine sponges: These foam-like sponges can be used to remove scuff marks from walls and baseboards as well as layers of dirt and grime and other stubborn stains. (The Magic Eraser is a retail version of this.) These can damage surfaces if used incorrectly, so, read labels and test before use.
• Microfiber towels: Dust and dirt cling to these absorbent cloths. They require less cleaning product than a cotton towel and can be effective for “dry dusting” furniture when you don’t want to use a product.
• Robotic vacuums: These smart vacuums can navigate autonomously around a home while cleaning the floors. “These are not usually effective enough for deep cleaning a floor, but they can be fantastic in a pinch to help keep floors clean day to day,” Sardone says. They’re especially helpful at removing pet hair, she adds.
• Pumice stones: This abrasive cleaning aid can be used to gently rub out tough stains, like calcium deposits and soap scum. Sardone says they’re effective for removing gray, stubborn water lines on the inside of toilets.
• Natural/green products: Eco-friendly cleaning products don’t contain harsh chemicals. “If you can smell it, you’re inhaling it,” Sardone says. “If it makes you cough, you’re ingesting it. Consider using all-natural cleaning products with no odor.” You can buy store versions or use natural household items like baking soda and vinegar.
• Natural/green products: Eco-friendly cleaning products don’t contain harsh chemicals. “If you can smell it, you’re inhaling it,” Sardone says. “If it makes you cough, you’re ingesting it. Consider using all-natural cleaning products with no odor.” You can buy store versions or use natural household items like baking soda and vinegar.

Tip: Put your cleaning tools within easy reach. Sardone recommends keeping cleaning products below each bathroom sink, including a glass cleaner, disinfectant, and all-purpose cleaner.

Also, embrace some cleaning hacks: For example, Sansoni suggests using daily shower cleaner to keep the shower and tub surfaces clean. “Mist surfaces right after showering, while the walls are still wet. No rinsing, wiping, or scrubbing is necessary,” he says.

Which Method Should I Use for Cleaning Surfaces?

There’s no one-size-fits-all to cleaning every surface in your home. Cleaning options range from disinfecting to steaming. Some cleaning methods can even damage household surfaces if not used correctly. For example, vinegar is known for being a favorite eco-friendly cleaner, but it’s acidic and can corrode wood and stone if not used properly.

Here are three common cleaners and methods:

1. All-purpose cleaners: These can be used to remove grime, grease, and everyday messes on various hard surfaces. Avoid using them on unfinished surfaces, like raw wood or unsealed stone. They’re best for countertops, floors, appliances, and everyday cleanups.
2. Steam cleaning: This chemical-free solution uses steam to dissolve and remove dirt, grime, dust mites, and contaminants. Dry steam cleaners can be used on nearly any nonporous surface, like tile or sealed countertops, too. Avoid using them on drywall, marble or porous stones, or unsealed wood. It’s best for flooring (carpets, sealed tile, and hardwood floors); countertops; grout lines; mattresses; and furniture.
3. Disinfectants: They use chemicals, often in bleach and alcohol solutions, to kill germs on surfaces and household objects. Bottles are often labeled as “kills 99.9% of household germs.” Avoid using these for day-to-day cleaning. They’re best for cleaning surfaces contaminated from cooking raw meat or preventing the spread of illness.

Tip: Sardone follows a “rule of three” when disinfecting household items. First, wipe the surface clean with an all-purpose cleaner to remove the grime and grease. Next, use a disinfectant, following the bottle instructions for how long the product should remain on the surface before wiping it away. Last, follow up with an all-purpose cleaner to remove any chemical residue from the disinfectant.

What Are the Germiest Places in a Home?

We know the usual suspects that are germ hubs in our homes, namely bathroom and kitchen surfaces, fixtures, and appliances. But what about items lurking in those rooms that you may not have thought about? Toilets are not only germy, but when flushed, they can spread microorganisms on surfaces and items nearby, according to a 2021 University of Arizona study published in the “Journal of Applied Microbiology.” That means toothbrush holders and toothbrushes are directly in the line of fire. The Washington Post recommends closing the lid before flushing and storing toothbrushes in a drawer or medicine cabinet.

Other secret places for unsuspecting homeowners to clean include the disposal flange in your kitchen sink, your coffeemaker’s reservoir, sponges and towels in the kitchen, and knobs and buttons on kitchen appliances.

Here are other lesser-known areas:

• Filters: In the dishwasher, a strainer at the bottom should be routinely unscrewed and rinsed and cleaned. “It may contain months — or even years — of decaying food particles,” Sardone says. (If your dishwasher starts to smell bad, it’s a sure sign your filter needs cleaning.) The vent hood above the stove and even the microwave also have filters that need to be regularly cleaned.
• Air conditioner vents: The vent grilles on your floors or walls can become a dust magnet. Vacuum the outside and inside, and wipe gently with a towel. Also, if you have an air filter inside your vents be sure to regularly clean those, too.
• Ceiling fan blades: The top of the blades can become caked in dust over time.
• Shoe shelves: Dust balls and dirt can accumulate.
• Oven doors: The interior glass of the oven door can become coated in difficult-to-remove grime if they aren’t regularly cleaned.

Should I Call a Pro for a Deep Clean?

Most cleaning businesses offer a variety of services, including a weekly or biweekly service for routine cleaning or a one-time deep clean. If you’re looking for a deep clean, be sure to ask for a specific list of what the company provides. “If the list just says sweeping, vacuuming carpets, polishing furniture, mopping, dusting, and scrubbing toilets and showers, that’s not a deep clean,” Sardone says. “But it should include things like washing baseboards, ceiling fan blades, and blinds, and wiping doors and cabinet fronts.”

What Are the Most Common Cleaning Mistakes?

No one wants mistakes, but the good news is that you can easily avoid two common ones. The first is failing to read the directions on your cleaning products, says Sansoni. It can result in damaging a household surface.

The second is “not doing anything,” Sardone says. “When you don’t keep up with cleaning, it builds up and can become unmanageable. [Problems include] soap scum that builds up in the shower or grime that builds up in the sink or a heavier coat of dust. Old dirt is way harder to clean than new dirt. That’s why it’s so important to keep up with daily, weekly, and deep cleaning.”

Dog-friendly landscaping tips so you can have a beautiful yard and a happy dog.

Landscaping for dogs is easy with these tips about what to do and what NOT to.

Like choosing the right mulch.

Mulch

DO: Use gravel, shredded hardwood mulch, or wood chips; they won’t stick to longhair coats.
DON’T: Use cocoa mulch, which may contain theobromine, the same ingredient that makes chocolate poisonous to dogs.

Yard Features

DO: Create a water feature so your dog can cool off on hot days.
DON’T: Install a pond or pool that’s hard for your dog to enter and exit.

DO: Add a sandbox your dog can feel free to dig in. Bury bones and treats at first to pique their interest.
DON’T: Think that sandboxes are maintenance-free. Keep a shovel and rake nearby to cover holes and clean waste.

Plants

DO: Use organic fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides on lawns and plants.
DON’T: Spread toxic lawn and plant care products, which can harm dogs. Studies have shown that exposure to pesticides may affect dogs similarly to how it affects humans. Scientists have linked lawn chemicals to canine cancer, according to EcoWatch.

DO: Select plant species that reduce fleas, such as lavender, rosemary, and mint, and others that are good for dogs to eat — blueberries, strawberries, wheat grass, and oat grass.
DON’T: Select plants that can make your dog sick, like foxglove, iris, monkshood, and lily of the valley.

DO: Landscape with urine-resistant plants, such as Euonymus japonica (Japanese spindle tree) and Burkwood osmanthus.
DON’T: Freak out when you find yellow and brown spots in your lawn caused by urine. Reseeding is a simple and easy cure for those spots. Or create a potty station.

Boundaries

DO: Create paths or walkways along routes your dog already travels.
DON’T: Think you can redirect your dog away from areas they’ve already claimed. Don’t resort to planting thorny shrubs or other plants to deter them. You’ll both be sorry.

DO: Edge flowerbeds with rocks or foot-tall shrubs to protect your posies.
DON’T: Use a metal edging that can cut your pooch.

DO: Give up the idea of having a perfect yard — a place that’s perfect for you and your pet is better.
DON’T: Let your dog rule the roost. Train them to respect boundaries and do their business in a designated spot.

Cleaning your home’s siding every year and keeping it in good repair extends the life of any siding and heads off replacement costs.

With a bit of preventive maintenance, your home’s siding could be trouble-free for 50 years or more. And that means you won’t have to replace siding as often.

Cleaning siding removes the dirt and mildew that shortens the life of the siding. A clean house protects your investment, too. Some real estate appraisers say good curb appeal can add 5% to 11% to the value of your house.

Cleaning All Types of Siding

All types of siding benefit from an annual cleaning to remove grit, grime, and mildew. Cleaning an average-sized house may take you and a friend every bit of a weekend. Here’s how to do it:

1. Start with a bucket of warm, soapy water. Mix one-half cup of trisodium phosphate (TSP, available at grocery stores, hardware stores, and home improvement centers) with one gallon of water.

2. Divide your siding into 10-foot sections. Scrub each section using a soft-bristled brush attached to a long handle. Work from bottom to top to avoid streaking and rinse often. (For two-story homes, you’ll be using a ladder, so keep safety foremost.)

What’s a Professional Cleaning Cost?

If you don’t have the time — or the inclination — you can have your house professionally cleaned for $100 to $650. A professional team will use a power washer and take less than a day.

You can rent a power washer to do the job yourself for about $35 to $175 per day, but beware if you don’t have experience with the tool. Power washers can strip paint, gouge softwoods, loosen caulk, and eat through mortar. Also, the tool can force water under horizontal lap joints, causing moisture to accumulate behind the siding.

A siding professional has the expertise to prevent water penetration at joints, seams around windows and doors, and electrical fixtures.

Inspecting Siding for Damage

All siding: Siding is vulnerable to water infiltration where it butts against windows, doors, and corner moldings. Look for caulk that has cracked because of age or pulled away from adjacent surfaces, leaving gaps. Reapply a color-matched exterior caulk during dry days with temperatures in excess of 65 degrees for maximum adhesion.

Wood siding: Check for chipped or peeling paint and cracked boards and trim.

Stucco: Be on the lookout for cracks and chips.

Brick: Look for crumbling mortar joints.

You’ll want to repair any defects before cleaning. The sooner you make repairs, the better you protect your house from moisture infiltration that can lead to dry rot and mold forming inside your walls.

Repairing Wood, Vinyl, and Fiber-Cement Siding

Repairs to wood, vinyl, and fiber-cement siding require the expertise to remove the damaged siding while leaving surrounding siding intact. Unless you have the skills, hire a professional carpenter or siding contractor. Expect to pay $1 to $15 per square foot to replace one or two damaged siding panels, depending on the material, or pieces of wood clapboard.

Repairing Brick and Mortar

Crumbling and loose mortar should be removed with a cold chisel and repaired with fresh mortar — a process called repointing. An experienced do-it-yourselfer can repoint mortar joints between bricks, but the process is time-consuming. Depending on the size of the mortar joints (thinner joints are more difficult), a masonry professional will repoint brick siding for $4 to $25 per square foot.

Efflorescence — the powdery white residue that sometimes appears on brick and stone surfaces — is the result of soluble salts in the masonry or grout being leached out by moisture, probably indicating the masonry and grout wasn’t sealed correctly.

Remove efflorescence by scrubbing it with water and white vinegar mixed in a 50/50 solution and a stiff bristle brush. As soon as the surface is clear and dry, seal it with a quality masonry sealer to prevent further leaching.

Persistent efflorescence may indicate a moisture problem behind the masonry. Consult a professional building or masonry contractor.

Repairing Stucco

Seal cracks and small holes with color-matched exterior acrylic caulk. Try pressing sand into the surface of wet caulk to match the texture of the surrounding stucco. Paint the repair to match.

To repair larger holes and cracks, you may want to call in a pro who’s familiar with stucco work. A professional charges $600 to $2,480 for a repair job, depending on the size of the damage. Repainting the patch to match your siding will be up to you.

Removing Mildew

Stubborn, black spotty stains are probably mildew. Dab the area with a little diluted bleach; if the black disappears, it’s mildew. Clean the area with a solution of one part bleach to four parts water. Wear eye protection and protect plants from splashes. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.

Homeowners spend more money on kitchen remodeling than on any other home improvement project, and with good reason. Kitchens are the hub of home life and a source of pride. And the right kitchen design details will keep your kitchen in style long term so you likely won’t need a next kitchen remodel!

With proper planning and some creativity, you can recover a significant portion of your kitchen remodeling costs through the value the project brings to your home. That’s especially true if you incorporate classic kitchen design ideas.

A complete kitchen renovation with a national median cost of $80,000 recovers about 75% of the initial project cost at the home’s resale, according to the “Remodeling Impact Report” from the National Association of REALTORS®.

The project gets a big thumbs-up from homeowners, too. Those polled in the report gave their new kitchen a “joy score” of 9.8 (out of 10!), a rating based on those who said they were happy or satisfied with their remodeling.

Kitchen Remodeling Ideas for Home Improvement

To help ensure you get a good return on your kitchen remodel, follow these seven tips:

#1 Start With a Kitchen Home Improvement Plan

Planning your kitchen remodel should take more time than the actual construction. If you plan well, you can minimize the amount of time you’re inconvenienced by construction mayhem. Plus, you’re more likely to stay on budget.

How much time should you spend planning? The National Kitchen and Bath Association recommends at least six months. That way, you won’t be tempted to change your mind during construction and create change orders, which will inflate construction costs and hurt your return on investment.

Some tips on planning:

Study your existing kitchen: How wide is the doorway into your kitchen? Many homeowners make the mistake of buying an extra-large fridge only to find they can’t get it in the doorway. To avoid mistakes like this, create a drawing of your kitchen with measurements for doorways, walkways, counters, etc. And don’t forget height.

Think about traffic patterns: Work aisles should be a minimum of 42 inches wide and at least 48 inches wide for households with multiple cooks.

Design with ergonomics in mind: Drawers or pull-out shelves in base cabinets, counter heights that can adjust up or down, and a wall oven instead of a range are all features that make a kitchen accessible to everyone — and a pleasure to work in.

Plan for the unforeseeable: Even if you’ve planned down to the number of nails you’ll need in your remodel, expect the unexpected. Build in a little leeway for completing the remodel. Want it done by Thanksgiving? Then plan to be done before Halloween.

Choose all your fixtures and materials before starting: Contractors will be able to make more-accurate bids, and you’ll lessen the risk of delays because of back orders. If you’re not sure what you want, opt for white. White features are always in fashion in the kitchen and are considered a classic kitchen remodeling option.

Don’t be afraid to seek help: A professional designer can simplify your kitchen remodel. Pros help make style decisions, foresee potential problems, and schedule contractors. Most kitchen designers charge $65 to $250 per hour, or 10% to 20% of your total project cost.

#2 Get Real About Kitchen Appliances

It’s easy to get carried away when planning your new kitchen. A six-burner commercial-grade range and luxury-brand refrigerator may make eye-catching centerpieces, but they may not fit your cooking needs or lifestyle.

Appliances are essentially tools used to cook and store food. Your kitchen remodel shouldn’t be about the tools, but the design and functionality of the entire kitchen. So, unless you’re an exceptional cook who cooks a lot, concentrate your dollars on long-term features that add value, such as cabinets and flooring.

Then choose appliances made by trusted brands that have high marks in online reviews and “Consumer Reports.”

 

#3 Keep the Same Kitchen Floor Plan

Nothing will drive up the cost of a remodel faster than changing the location of plumbing pipes and electrical outlets, and knocking down walls. This is usually where unforeseen problems occur.

So, if possible, keep appliances, water fixtures, and walls in the same location. Not only will you save on demolition and reconstruction costs, you’ll cut the amount of dust and debris your project generates.

#4 Don’t Underestimate the Power of Lighting

Lighting can make a world of difference in a kitchen. It can make it look larger and brighter. And it will help you work safely and efficiently. You should have two different types of lighting in your kitchen:

1. Task lighting: Under-cabinet lighting should be on your must list, since cabinets create such dark work areas. And since you’re remodeling, there won’t be a better time to hard-wire your lights. Plan for at least two fixtures per task area to eliminate shadows. Pendant lights are good for islands and other counters without low cabinets. Recessed lights and track lights work well over sinks and general prep areas with no cabinets overhead.
2. Ambient lighting: Flush-mounted ceiling fixtures, wall sconces, and track lights create overall lighting in your kitchen. Include dimmer switches to control intensity and mood.

#5 Prioritize Quality in Your Kitchen Remodel

Functionality and durability should be top priorities during kitchen remodeling. If you’re planning on moving soon, products with substantial warranties are a selling advantage. Resist low-quality bargains and choose products that combine low maintenance with long warranty periods.

Solid-surface countertops, for instance, may cost a little more, but with the proper care, they’ll look great for a long time. Flooring is another example of a feature to invest a little extra money in. In particular, hardwood flooring is a classic kitchen design choice that’s high quality and great for resale value. In fact, more than half of home buyers who purchased a home without hardwood floors say they would have paid an extra $2,080 for them, according to the “Home Features Survey” from the National Association of REALTORS®. And among buyers of any age, upward of 80% say hardwood floors are “somewhat” or “very important.”

 

 

 

A door snake is one of the quickest insulation tips. It only takes a few seconds.

A little bit of DIY home insulation can protect you from a drafty house and a scary energy bill. The Environmental Protection Agency estimates that homeowners can save an average of 15% on heating and cooling costs (or an average of 11% on total energy costs) by air-sealing their homes and adding insulation.

Though most people ask a pro to do the big job of insulating walls and ceilings, here are some quick insulation tips you can do in 15 minutes or less.

#1 Get a Door Snake — the Simplest DIY Home Insulation Ever

Keep drafts from sneaking in with a door snake, an object you place along that crack under your door. A 1/8-inch gap can let in as much cold air as a 2.4-inch diameter hole in the exterior wall, so a door snake makes a difference.

A rolled-up blanket makes a great snake — or you can buy the real deal for less than $10.

#2 Caulk Around the Dryer and Bathroom Vents

The hole in the wall where your dryer and bathroom vents exit the house leaks air, too. Go outside and put silicon caulk on the outside edge of the vents, where it meets the wall.

You’ll also keep bugs and other critters from sneaking in through the vent gaps.

#3 Hang Heavy Curtains

Hang curtains or shades made of thick material that will keep in your expensive, man-made heat during the winter and keep out room-baking sun in the summer.

Open the drapes during sunny winter days. The light lifts your mood and heats your home.

#4 Put Weather Stripping Around Doors and Windows

Gaps around doors and windows are a top source of heat loss.

Install weather stripping — a narrow piece of metal, vinyl, rubber, or foam — around them to stop conditioned air from escaping, and outdoor air from coming in.

#5 Install Window Insulation Film

Window film adds a layer of cold-blocking plastic that reduces heat loss by around 10%. It comes in sheets you cut to size, tape to the window glass, and heat with a blow dryer to fit snugly and smoothly. It won’t block natural light, so you can have your sunshine and your insulated window, too. You can also use this on sliding glass doors.

Make sure to clean your windows first, or the adhesive on the film may not stick.

#6 Add Foam Board to Patio Doors

Cut the heat loss from that glass door by installing rigid insulation board over any doors or portions of doors you don’t use during the cold months. Cut the panel to fit the door, and slip it into the doorframe in the winter. Come spring, pop it back out.

#7 Put Insulation Sleeves on Water Heater Pipes

Keep pipes from losing heat (or worse, freezing and exploding one very cold day!), by wrapping them in a pipe sleeve. They’re strips of fiberglass insulation that fit around the pipe. You can tape them to the pipe.

Bonus: You’ll raise water temperature by two to four degrees, so you won’t have to wait as long for hot water.

#8 Wrap Your Water Heater in an Insulation Blanket

If your water heater is old or in an unheated area of your house, consider insulating your water tank. It could reduce standby heat losses by 25% to 45% and save you about 7% to 16% in water heating costs, according to Energy.gov. You can find pre-cut jackets or blankets from around $20.

You’ll need to wrap a gas heater differently than you do an electric one. For safety and access reasons, different elements of each type can’t be covered. Read the instructions for your heater type carefully.

#9 Get a Fireplace Plug

Traditional fireplaces draw in as much as 300 cubic feet per minute of heated room air for combustion, then send it straight up the chimney, according to Energy.gov A fireplace plug — an inflatable piece of urethane that you stick in the hearth when you’re not using it that looks a lot like a square balloon — keeps cold air out and warm air in.

#10 Install an Attic Stairway Insulator

The door in your ceiling that leads to the attic is another source of money-sucking drafts. An attic stairway insulator (also called a stair cover) is a tent-like insert made of foam, aluminum-coated fabric, or fiberglass that you can strap or staple into the doorway.

Look for one with a zipper opening so you can crawl into the attic without pulling out the insulator.

 

Hardwood is a top choice for flooring. What options are right for you?

For years, homeowners have preferred hardwood flooring. These floors are an investment because they’re timeless and durable. On top of that, you can choose from different colors, stains, and grains to get the look you want.

Because hardwood floors are popular, they can help homes sell faster and increase your home’s value. Installing new wood flooring can recoup 118% of their cost, according to the National Association of REALTORS® “2022 Remodeling Impact Report.” That made it one of the survey’s top two interior remodeling projects for cost recovery, behind hardwood floor refinishing.

Another benefit of wood flooring is you don’t need to replace it, unlike carpet or tile flooring. Instead, you can simply resand or refurbish it, saving money over time.

Even though wood floors have so many benefits, they have a few downsides. For example, wear and tear can easily dent and scratch them, and mold, detergents, water, and termites can damage them.

If you’re considering replacing or updating your floors, follow these basics to help you find the right hardwood flooring.

Refinishing vs. New Floor Installation

A new hardwood floor has a lot of selling points, but it may not be in your budget. In that case, you can refinish your existing floors to make them look brand new without the high price tag.

If you’re unsure which way to go, have a professional look at your floors. With an objective opinion, you can more easily decide if refinishing is right for you.

Of course, if you refinish your existing floors, you’ll spend less than you would on installation. Refinishing can cost $1.50 to $5 per square foot without staining and $2 to $7 per square foot with it. But new hardwood floors run $9 to $12 per square foot.

Considerations for Choosing the Right Hardwood Flooring

In choosing the type of hardwood you want, you’ll select from engineered or hardwood flooring, and prefinished or finished on-site. You can also pick from different wood types and plank widths.

Engineered vs. Solid Hardwood Flooring

Solid hardwood planks are single pieces of wood, while engineered hardwood combines multiple layers of hardwood. Interlocking options make installing engineered hardwood easier.

Another plus for engineered hardwood floors: They reduce moisture problems you’d usually find in standard hardwood flooring.

Both types typically cost $5 to $15 per square foot.

Prefinished vs. Finished On-site

Prefinished hardwood floors are finished at a factory, and a coat of polyurethane tops each board. Site-finished hardwood is shipped to your home unfinished, and the process of sanding, staining, and sealing is done after the floor is installed.

Prefinished boards have more uniform color and staining, and some come with anti-scratch coating. But with site-finished planks, you can test and select stains and finishes that work with your interior. Many flooring experts can provide on-site guidance to help you find the best match for your home.

Unfinished boards cost less per square foot, but prefinished boards cost a bit less overall because of installation.

Wood Types: Grain and Color

Wood flooring comes in different styles and shades, including grains and light and dark colors.

Grain

The way the wood flooring is cut and sliced determines the grain. Your floor’s wood grain is like its own unique fingerprint. Because no two look alike, this feature adds character to your home. The three common types of wood grain are flat, straight, and curly.

Color

Wood flooring is available in a wide range of colors. Trending colors include beige and gray tones, natural-looking wood, and dark charcoal or black stains.

Look for wood colors that complement your home’s overall design and your lifestyle. Darker wood floors will show scuffs and scratches more easily, while wear and tear will be less visible on lighter floors.

Keep in mind that applying stains on-site will alter the natural colors of the wood. Most floor teams will help you select stains that hit your goal hues.

Plank Width

The plank width of your hardwood floors can make a world of difference in your finished floor design. You can make a room look bigger or smaller depending on the width.

If you choose wider wood planks, you’ll get a rustic or modern upscale look to your home. The wider the planks, the fewer the seams you’ll have. Wide plank flooring ranges from five inches to 12 inches.

More narrow plank flooring boards can work well in smaller spaces and add a clean, contemporary look. Standard plank widths are between three inches and 4.75 inches.

Alternatives to Hardwood Flooring

Despite wood floor advantages, they aren’t in everyone’s budget. Here are some alternatives for a great look minus the hefty price tag.

Bamboo

Bamboo flooring is a budget-friendly option that comes from the bamboo plant. The bamboo is sliced, shredded, and pressed with heat to form wood-like boards.

Pros

Bamboo floors resist pests and are durable, easy to maintain, sustainable, and environmentally friendly. They also cost much less per square foot than most solid hardwoods.

Cons

These floors react to moisture, so they’re not a good choice in a humid climate. They also may show scratches more easily, and the range of tones and finishes is more limited.

Laminate

Laminate flooring is made of multiple layers of products combined through lamination, and it resembles wood flooring.

Pros

These floors come in planks or tiles that snap together, making them easy for DIYers.

They aren’t made from trees and are extremely durable (great for high-traffic areas). Maintenance is easy, too.

Cons

Once laminate floors start to lose their sparkle, they can’t be refinished. You’ll have to replace them.

Because laminate is made with plastic and sometimes formaldehyde, it isn’t environmentally friendly.

People with chemical sensitivities should make sure that any laminates conform to health regulations.

Moisture may damage some laminate flooring, so it shouldn’t be used in bathrooms or laundry rooms.

Luxury Vinyl Planks

Luxury vinyl plank flooring is made of several layers of vinyl and often includes a layer of long-wearing urethane. It’s available in a lot of styles and resembles different species of wood, according to FixR.

Pros

Installation uses a click-lock floating process that’s easy to DIY.

You can choose from several thicknesses and qualities.

Durability makes LVP floors a good choice for homes with kids and pets.

Cons

The material used in LVP isn’t sustainable.

It likely won’t have as high a return on investment as wood floors.

Questions to Ask Your Flooring Contractor

When it comes to your home, you want information. Here are some critical questions to ask your flooring contractor so that you’re well informed before and during the installation process.

• Are you licensed and insured to install and/or finish hardwood floors?
• Can you provide references, pictures, and online reviews to support the quality of your work?
• What’s included in your flooring warranty?
• Is my subfloor suited to this installation?
• What’s the best hardwood flooring for my home?
• How long will it take to install my floor?
• What could happen to increase the installation price?
• How will you contain the dust and debris and handle the cleanup?

You can also contact a REALTOR® to get references to area contractors who have installed wood flooring. REALTORS® have information from satisfied homeowners and feedback from open house guests that will offer you a solid foundation.

 

 

Use humidity, a car product, and more ‘wow’ ideas to save cleaning time.

When cleaning your home, why not do it in such a way that’ll keep your home cleaner with less effort?

Here are 7 ways to keep your house spring-clean fresh all year long:

#1 Use Humidity to Defy Dust

Low humidity levels cause static electricity. Not only does static attract dust, it makes the dust stick, so it’s difficult to remove. High humidity causes problems, too. It’s an ideal environment for dust mites. These microscopic critters are a double threat: They’re a common allergen, and they contribute to dust production. There are as many as 19,000 dust mites in half a teaspoon of house dust, according to the American College of Allergy, Asthma, and Immunology. Yuck!

What to do: Keep your home’s humidity level between 40% and 50%. That’ll eliminate static while decreasing dust mite growth.

Tip: About 80% of dirt in homes walks in from the outside. Stop dirt with a bristly doormat before it’s tracked inside.

#2 Apply a Car Product to Keep Shower Doors Scum-Free

You can eliminate soap scum buildup by coating your glass shower doors with a rain-repellent product made for car windshields. When applied to glass, these products create an invisible barrier that causes water, oils, and debris (like soap suds) to bead and roll off.

What to do: Find this product anywhere that sells basic auto supplies. You’ll know it’s time to reapply when water stops beading on shower doors. Keep in mind, windshield rain repellents were made to treat glass, not plastic, so only use them on a glass door.

Another option: Automatic shower cleaners claim to let you clean your shower and tub less frequently — like every 30 days. After you finish bathing, the gadget will douse your shower and tub with a cleanser that prevents soap scum buildup while combating mold and mildew. You can buy automatic shower cleaners at most big-brand retailers, like Target and Walmart.

#3 Seal Your Stone Countertops

Natural stone countertops, including granite and marble, are porous, so if they’re not sealed, liquids like red wine, juice, or soy sauce can stain them. A countertop sealer repels stains by causing spills to bead instead of get absorbed. Most countertops are sealed when installed, but the sealant does wear down.

What to do: To keep your countertops in tip-top shape, reapply sealer twice a year. To see if you need a fresh coat, pour a tiny bit of water on your natural stone countertop. If the water doesn’t bead or doesn’t stay beaded for two to three minutes, it’s time to reseal.

Shopping for stone countertops? Slabs with lots of swirls or veins tend to be more porous, and, therefore harder to keep clean.

#4 Use Protectants on Furniture and Carpets

Protective furniture sprays and carpet sealants, like Scotchgard and Ultra-Guard, guard against inevitable spills by causing liquids to bead on the surface instead of being absorbed.

Some of these products also protect fabrics from fading and resist mold, mildew, and bacteria.

What to do: Apply the appropriate sealer once a year after a deep upholstery and carpet cleaning.

#5 Clean Your Oven the Old-Fashioned Way

Forget oven cleaners that promise an easy job. Most cleaners give off noxious fumes and make a horrible mess. The basic ingredient in many oven cleaners is lye, which can burn your eyes and your skin; it’s usually fatal if swallowed.

What to do: Use a wet pumice stone to scrape off dirt and grease. It’s faster than oven cleaner and toxin-free.

Tip: Need to wipe your range or anything else down? You can bust filth faster by heating up a clean, damp sponge or cloth in a microwave for 30 seconds before wiping with or without a cleaning product. Put on rubber gloves before you pick up that hot sponge.

#6 Do Quick Touch-Ups

Small cleaning projects prevent filth from building up. When you spot clean daily, you can prevent smudges from staining, banish dust bunnies, and even combat allergens.

What to do: Create a spot-cleaning kit so you can address small, dirty situations in minutes.

• Cleaning pads are great for eradicating dirty fingerprints on walls and light switches.
• Damp micro-cloths can reduce airborne dander when used daily to wipe down pets.
• Dry sweeper cloths can quickly pick up dust and dry dirt off floors, shelves, and electronics.

Tip: Keep stored items cleaner longer by shutting closets, cabinets, and drawers, so circulating dust and dirt can’t get in.

#7 Update Your Light Bulbs

OK, It’s not really cleaning. But good lighting can make you and your home look and feel great — and help you spot that spill before it gets funky.

A room lit with low-wattage incandescent bulbs and compact fluorescents can look dark and dingy. “Daylight” bulbs brighten things up. These full-spectrum light bulbs mimic natural light, so they give better visual accuracy. Bonus: Like sunlight, these bulbs can boost your mood.

What to do: When shopping for bulbs, look for those marked “daylight” that have a range between 5,000 to 6,500 kelvins.

When to look for sales on mattresses, appliances, tools, furnishings, and materials.

Buying stuff can be stressful. Cheap out and you could regret it. Overspend and you’ll cut into your budget. Knowing the best time of year to buy appliances and other household items can lessen the anxiety.

Furniture: January and July

You could save 30% to 60% buying furniture in January and July, as stores try to clear out inventory and make way for new pieces, which manufacturers introduce in February and August.

Floor samples especially often sell for a song, so don’t hesitate to ask.

Storage Essentials: January and August

In August, retailers slash prices and offer free shipping on shelving, organizing systems, baskets, and storage bins, baiting parents who are packing kids off to college or getting organized for a new school year. (No offspring? No problem. Proof of parenthood isn’t required to qualify for deals.)

It happens again in January, when stores roll out more sales — and selection — to help you find a home for all those holiday gifts and meet your organizing goals for the New Year.

Linens and Towels: January

Department store “white sales” — launched in 1878 — are still a favorite marketing tactic and make January the best time to binge on high-quality bedding and towels. If the exact color or style you’re seeking is out of stock, ask in-store for a rain check, so you can get exactly what you want at the price that can’t be beat.

Major Appliances: January, September, October, and the Holidays

The prices on this year’s appliances bottom out when they suddenly become last year’s models. Except for refrigerators (more on that below), you can pick up last year’s models for way less in September, October, and January, when stores are making room for new inventory.

For good deals on this year’s models, wait for Black Friday and the holidays. The season rivals inventory clear-out bargains as the best time of year for sales on appliances. And if you’ve got more than one appliance on the fritz, holidays are often the time to find incentives for buying multiple items.

Mattresses: February and May

Even the most obscure holiday seems to inspire mattress sale commercials. Annoying, yes, but also a reminder that you should never pay full price for a mattress. The best time of year for sales is February (courtesy of Presidents’ Day) and May (Memorial Day).

Many department stores offer coupons for additional savings on the sale price, while specialty chains — which have the biggest markups — can drop prices 50% or more. But don’t waste your time price shopping: Manufacturers have exclusive deals with retailers for each model, so the only way to find a lower price is to snuggle up to a different mattress.

Refrigerators: May

Unlike other big-ticket appliances, new fridges are released in May. Combine the need for retail turnover with Memorial Day sales, and you get epic savings nearly all month long, making it the best time of year to buy a new refrigerator.

Snow Blowers: March and April

The best time to pick up a low-cost snow blower is exactly when you DON’T need it: in March and April. That time of year, no store wants them taking precious floor space away from spring merch like patio furniture and grills.

Vacuums: April and May

New vacs debut in June, so last year’s models go on sale in April and May — just in time for spring cleaning.

Roofing: May

For the lowest price on materials, buy in May.

But if you’re paying a pro to install a new roof, contractor rates begin their climb April 1 and stay high through fall. So if weather allows for wintertime installation, you could save big.

Gas Grills: July and August

Come July 5, there’s still smoke in the air from Fourth of July fireworks, but stores are already moving on to Halloween, with Christmas not far behind. So, they’ll cook up juicy savings on grills and other summer staples in July and August. Sales peak by Labor Day, so you could pick up a new grill and still have time to host one final summer hurrah.

Lawn Mowers: August, September, and May

August and September are the perfect times to retire an ailing mower. You’ll find the lowest prices of the year (but also the slimmest selection) as stores replace mowers with snow blowers. Retailers also kick off the season with sales every April. You generally won’t save quite as much, but you’ll have more choices.

Perennials: September

Unlike nonperishable goods, there’s not much retailers can do with last season’s perennials, so September brings savings of 30% to 50% and two-for-one offers on plants like hostas, daylilies, and peonies. And note that independent gardening stores can typically offer deeper discounts than big chains.

Cooler weather also makes this a great time of year to plant. How’s that for a win-win? If you prefer planting in the spring, many nurseries offer 10% to 20% off when you pre-order in February or March.

Power Tools: June and December

Power tools are a favorite go-to gift for Father’s Day and the holidays, so June and December are the best time to buy tools like cordless drills.

Paint: January, May, July, November, and December

Prices for interior and exterior paint bottom out when the mercury (and demand) falls — in November, December, and January, but also when it rises back up, in May and July.

HVAC Equipment: March, April, October, and November

Just like with snow blowers, the best time to buy furnaces and whole-house air-conditioning systems is when you don’t need them. Prices are lowest during months with moderate temperatures — generally March and April, then October and November.

Many installers also run promotions during these slow seasons to help load their books. They also may be more willing to negotiate a lower price or throw in a free upgrade like a fancy thermostat.

Flooring: December and January

From mid-December into January, homeowners tend to take a break from major remodeling projects because of the holidays. Flooring retailers and installers are looking for business, so that gorgeous wide-plank flooring or luscious carpet can be yours for an even more scrumptious price. Happy holidays to you.